How To Make Money With Your Digital Camera

If you own a digital camera, you have probably taken at least a few photos that you think others would like. Did you know that its quite easy to make money with most any digicam even a low-end point and shoot? Well, it is, and Im going to tell you how to get started!

You dont need to be an experienced professional photographer to start earning money with your digital camera. And you certainly dont need a bunch of expensive photographic equipment. All you really need in order to earn some extra cash and possibly even a good living - is a decent digital camera, an active imagination and a little practice.

First, lets discuss the practice part. Get out and start taking a bunch of pictures. Take pictures of anything and everything you see including landscapes, buildings, automobiles, animals, peoplewell, you get the picture. Take pictures of everything, even things that might seem boring or uninteresting.

The key to getting several great pictures every time you pick up your camera is to take a boatload of them! In fact, I fill up my cameras 2 GB memory card virtually every day. Thats 569 high-resolution images per day! Out of that many pictures, I almost always have several keepers. Of course the advent of digital cameras has made it very easy and inexpensive to take tons of pictures any time you want to.

Be sure to spend some time learning your camera as you take your practice shots. Practice using the different settings and picture taking modes available on your particular camera model so that youll be prepared to capture the best images possible under a wide variety of conditions. For example, low-light photography, action photography (sports) and portraits all require different skills and varying camera settings in order to produce the best results.

After you have become familiar with your camera and feel confident about using its various settings, its time to start making some money. Studio portrait photography probably isnt an option unless you already own (or are willing to buy) the proper equipment. This includes a high-quality camera and lens, lighting equipment, backgrounds, etc. But there are plenty of other types of photography you can make money at with nothing but your quality digicam. For example, you can take pictures at birthday parties, amateur sporting events, family reunions and many other types of social events. You can also take pictures of local landmarks and tourist attractions and sell them on eBay or even your own website. The opportunities for making money by taking pictures is limited only by your imagination!

Regardless of the types of photographs you plan to take, here are a few tips to keep in mind:

1 Always take plenty of pictures. If you max out your memory card, youre virtually guaranteed to have several great pictures that your client will be happy to pay you for.

2 Take pictures from several different angles and with varying camera settings. It will do you no good to take 500 pictures at a birthday party if they are all exactly alike!

3 Anticipate where the action is going to be and be there yourself when it happens. For example, if youre taking pictures at little Johnnys first Pee-Wee football game, make sure youre in the best spot to get a good picture when he scores a touchdown.

4 Always be practicing with your camera and learning new photographic skills. Spend some time online keeping up with the most popular photography forums as well as the numerous photography help websites.

5 Submit some of your best photos for display on several photography websites such as TodaysPhoto.org. Youll receive plenty of free exposure for your work resulting in more business.

Conclusion: You really can turn your photography hobby into a money-making venture. And who knows, you just might find that you can do it full-time and kiss your day job goodbye!

Rick Rouse is the owner of TodaysPhoto.org. Visit him and submit your own photos to be considered for use as a Picture Of The Day at http://www.todaysphoto.org.

Toy and Small Dog Clothes

People wear clothes for many reasons. We wear them for modesty - it's illegal in most places to go around without any clothing. We wear clothes to protect us from the weather. Raincoats and hats make us much more comfortable in the rain while fleece lined coats and boots are greatly appreciated in cold weather, and when there is snow on the ground. We also wear clothes to make ourselves feel and look good, to impress other people with our excellent taste, and to show that we have the money for expensive designer clothes.

Dogs wear clothes for one reason only - their owners want them to wear the clothes. Dog owners put clothes on their dogs for most of the same reasons they put clothes on themselves and their children. In fact many dog owners regard their dogs as their children and they buy them clothes and dress them up to show how much they care for them. The exception to this, of course, is modesty. Dogs don't require clothing for that purpose and, in fact for obvious reasons, dog clothes rarely cover that particular area.

Protective clothing for small and toy dogs such as Boston Terriers, Chihuahuas, Yorkies, Maltese, Pugs and any of the miniature or teacup dog breeds is a good idea. These dogs generally feel the cold much more than larger dogs - that's why they do not enjoy going outside for walks with their owners in rainy, snowy or cold weather. They even resist going outside to the bathroom in inclement weather which makes it very difficult to house train toy dog breeds in cold or wet weather.

Raincoats and hats made of vinyl or waterproof nylon are available for wet weather, as are rain boots. These boots are usually fastened with Velcro and/or zippers. Fleece lined, shearling and wool coats are available to keep your dog warm in cold weather. Boots are useful to protect your dog's paws from the effects of ice and salt. For hot summer days, sensitive paws should wear sandals to protect them from hot asphalt or sand. You can also buy sunglasses for your dog but perhaps you could discuss this with your veterinarian to see if they provide any benefit to your dog's eyes. Protective clothing is also beneficial to short-haired and older dogs of all sizes as well as the small dog breeds. Even some of the larger short-haired dog breeds like the Bulldog, Boxer and Greyhound appreciate protection in the cold weather. See the Directory of Breed of Dogs to see which dog breeds are particularly sensitive to cold weather. Owners of most large dog breeds are probably not as interested in dog clothes but might consider obtaining reflective vests for their dogs. These vests make the dogs easier to see when walking at night and also make the dog easier to find if you are camping and hunting - especially good for black or dark-colored dogs.

Reflective vests have a practical purpose. So do some much more frivolous-looking clothes. Toy dogs and even some small dogs should wear harnesses rather than collars for reasons of health - they can easily injure their trachea with a collar. Some very sensible people have designed coats and other outfits with a 'D' ring on them which make extremely attractive harnesses for small dogs. Practical, attractive, and sometimes quite lavish clothes are available for toy and small dogs. Pajamas, bathrobes, dresses, sweaters, formal outfits for weddings, and costumes (you can dress your dog as a lamb, a lion, a vampire or even buy him an Elvis jumpsuit) can be found in stores and at discount prices on the Internet. Creative entrepreneurs advertise on-line that they will custom design and make outfits for your dog. Of course, if you like to sew, you can buy sewing patterns to make a blanket, cushion, dog coat, dog coat, leg warmers and boots for your dog and a matching scarf and hat for you to wear.

Dog clothes come in an amazing range of styles and prices. We hope you have fun choosing the right clothes for your dog.

Mike Mathews is a contributing writer and editor for the popular dog breed site: http://www.dog-breed-facts.com. He provides informative, real-world advice and tips on dog breeds, dog health, dog grooming and more. As well be sure to check out his free report on Dog Training.

Why Does My Dog Growl at Me?

Guarding is an instinctual behavior for dogs. It is useful to us when they warn strangers who intrude on their (and our) territory. One of the earliest benefits dog provided to man was to serve as an early warning intruder alert system.

Territoriality is, simply stated, guarding space. It is the dogs way of saying this space has value and it belongs to me and my pack. In fact, dogs guard all sorts of things, some tangible, such as food, others intangible such as space.

When they guard these items from outsiders it can be helpful. I leave my home knowing my dog will be alert to an inappropriate intrusion. Dogs also guard tangibles and intangibles from one another. You shouldnt expect to see a submissive dog take a bone or scrap from the alpha or dominant dog. Should he try, hell face a swift correction. But thats rarely necessary because in the structure of the dog pack, it is clearly understood who is entitled to what and when.

But what happens when that clear understanding is lacking between a dog and members of his human pack? The results can be a disastera dog who guards something against his very owners.

In this article well concentrate on space guarding behaviors. In the dog pack, if the dominant dog wants to walk from point A to point B, he will do it even if he has to nudge a lesser dog out of his way. If the more submissive dog protests, what he is actually doing is challenging the authority of his leader by trying to guard the space he occupies.

The same event may transpire in our homes. Your dog helps himself to a place on the sofa. You either sit down next to him, or try to take his collar to pull him off. Your own dog growls or snaps at you. Hes guarding space. Moreover, hes stating in dog language that he believes he is dominant to you.

You need to open a cabinet and the dog is blocking your way. You take his collar to move him, and he growls or bites. The same thing may occur when you want to push the dog out a door, pass him in a narrow hallway, or get too close to him laying in his favorite spot.

In many households, the human occupants do not realize that their dog is guarding space until the dog becomes completely out of control. In fact, we excuse the behavior. Thats because too often people apply human standards to canine behavior. Among our species it is impolite to pull someone out of a chair or shoulder them aside when you need something. So if the dog growls when you sit by him on the couch, many people wrongly think the dog is just being grumpy, or that he was too comfortable to be disturbed.

I have actually seen adults chastise children for being impolite to a dog for sitting next to him on furniture, or for wanting to remove the dog from their place. People subconsciously try to accept these problems as quirks of the dog. Many owners try to just work around the issue by not disturbing the dog under whatever circumstance causes the dog to guard.

Unfortunately, this sends precisely the wrong message to the dog. Humoring him confirms that he is dominant, and is, therefore, entitled to guard more and more space. Thats why guarding behavior escalates for many dogs. Often, I hear from owners whos dog began to growl at them under very limited conditions, say when being pulled off the sofa. But eventually the behavior escalates to the point where the dog growls when they even get near him on the sofa.

The owner thinks the dog is getting worse. The dog simply thinks hes getting stronger. For some dogs, dominance is a self-rewarding behavior. You want to remove him from the couch. He growls. You back off. The behavior works. So eventually he growls when you even look at him on the couch. They just dont seem to get it, the dog is thinking. Ill have to warn them earlier.

This can become very problematic for some pet owners, particularly those with young children in the house. Kids often dont realize that theyre not supposed to bother the dog. They just figure they have liberty to safely toddle wherever their little legs will take them. And if you ask me, they should have that right.

Older children must be taught to respect dogs. And younger children must be observed very carefully when they interact with a dog, to be sure they do not accidentally pinch him for example. But no one can expect a two year old child to understand she should avoid Rover when hes laying on the sofa.

Willy is a three year old German Short Hair Pointer. His owner, Lisa, called me very concerned. Willy had been growling at her baby every time the child approached him in his dog bed. Sometimes Willy would climb on the couch, and he would also growl at the baby on those occasions. Apparently this behavior had been going on for over a month. And just recently, the dog had growled at Lisa when she sat near him on the couch. Lisa was very confused because this entire set of behaviors was only about a month old, but it was getting worse fast.

Did your baby start walking about a month ago? I asked her. The answer was yes. That made it all clear to me. Willy always felt Lisa was dominant to him. So he never growled at her before. But when the baby started walking, this impudent little human would intrude on his space, and Willy did believe himself dominant to the baby.

Not understanding the behavior, Lisa had spent an entire month showing Willy how dominant he was by not correcting him and not letting the baby disturb him when he was comfortable. The unintended message to Willy was that he was more dominant than he had originally thought. Thats why he began to guard space from Lisa too.

While not all dogs progress from growling to snapping, or from air snapping to contact biting, that does happen with some dogs. And its tragic because it usually doesnt need to reach that point. Left untreated, most dogs who effectively guard space will eventually scare or hurt their owners enough to be removed from their homes, or be put down.

Willy became a client of the Chicagoland Boarding School for Dogs. In the time he spent with us, we used our Forcefree Method to show him that space was not a resource he should guard from his human family.

We taught Willy a series of exercises using a vibrating training collar delivering a series of low level taps. The vibration, while not at all painful, was attention getting. (Before we put the collar on Willy, we let Lisa feel the the collar on her hand so she understood they were not painful. Lisa described the feeling as a mild tickle.) During the initial phase of training, our goal was to teach Willy that when he felt the taps, he could stop them by altering a behavior.

We started out with leash pulling, showing him that pulling on a tight leash turned on the tapping sensation, and that walking nicely on a loose leash turned them off. Then we went to the sit stay. We showed Willy that getting up when he was supposed to be sitting turned on taps that he could turn off instantly by re-sitting himself.

The reason we didnt go right to the space guarding issue was simple. We didnt want to overwhelm the dog by immediately training for the most difficult behavior first. Also the guarding behaviors are very specific to the family. They might be tough to reproduce without his sofa, his baby, and his owner.

But once Willy understood that he could stop collar taps by altering a behavior, we were ready to confront the real issue, the guarding of space. By this point in the training, we had established a bond of trust and affection with Willy. That was critical because now we were teaching him to yield his personal space to us under the pressure of the taps.

In short, by sometimes invading Willys personal space, while tapping, we showed him that he could turn off the tapping, as usual, by giving us a desired behaviorin this case, moving out of the way. Starting on leash, we held the dog close to our body, literally turning into him, and tapped as we moved through his space. Using a combination of leash pressure and body movement, we moved Willy out of the way. The second he began to yield his space, the taps stopped.

Willy began to understand very quickly. Space wasnt worth guarding anymore. In fact, each time we asked him to give up space, he became very willing to do so at once. After all, as far as he knew, any space we asked him for became slightly annoying anyway.

We brought this dog home at the conclusion of our ten day program, reoriented him to his family and his environment, transferred the behavior modification techniques to his owner over the course of two hours. Then we left.

Lisa called two days later. She reported that Willy was leaving his dog bed as soon as the baby approached. We were happy with this report, but Lisa was concerned. She wanted the dog and the baby to be friends and she was worried that the dog was now fleeing from the baby.

We explained that this was progress given that the dog had modified a major behavior and was now yielding space, rather than guarding it. We advised her to give it some more time to see if the dog would eventually find pleasure in sharing space, time and bonding with the baby in his new submissive role. We did warn Lisa that not all dogs bond with all people, but that it was still a distinct possibility.

Two weeks later Lisa called again, and she was very happy. She found Willy and the baby curled up together in the dogs bed. Apparently, Willy had calmed down enough to realize that while he was no longer able to guard space, there was a wonderful pleasure in sharing it.

Trust is something that grows over time, and with experience. Every day that passes as Willy continues to show the right reaction is one more day in which the trust between he and his family grows. Willy has been home for several months now, and all the reports are good news.

Here is a dog who was at severe risk for re-homing and possibly might have injured a child, curled up in bed with his little master.

Marc Goldberg is a dog trainer specializing in the rehabilitation of difficult dogs and improving relationships. He is Vice President of the International Association of Canine Professionals (IACP) and Editor of SafeHands Journal. The author also educates professional dog trainers in his techniques. Visit him on the web at http://www.chicagodogtrainer.com or http://www.dogtraininginchicago.com.